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Honey

C

Cook Chatty Cathy

New member
I wanted to discuss honey as I am reading alot about the use of honey in Morrocan recipes. Where I grew up in Miami Fl there was orange blossom honey, it is a superior honey and the taste is quite exqusite I prefer it over all others.
When my family relocated to Alabama in my teenage years there was a local wild honey (it had no special name) and it had a taste I could barley tolerate.
Now my father tells me of 2 honeys he loves 1 is Sourwood honey I can get it here in N. Ga. the other is Tupelo honey, and it can be found in Florida.
I am in the process of getting together an assortment of honeys to cook with and would like it if any of you can recommend some others besides the ones I have allready mentioned that may be worth my while to get.
The honey that is mentioned in Morrocan cooking sounds like something I would not be fond of as the very explanation of it's flavor turns me off, I am hopeful that I can substitute it with a different honey and not compromise the recipe too much!
I'd appreciate any input any of you may have on the subject!
Cathy
P.S. Just in mentioning honey I am wondering what each of your experiences have been with honey bees so far this year? I have not seen many at all. Although I have a very active colony of carpenter bees that are in and around my shed, drilling holes and dive bombing our heads (funny little tricks they like to play!) hope they are doing some pollinating in my garden while they are hanging around as I would appreciate it. But let me know what you think.
 
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from my notes:

Whole-Comb
This is the bee product straight from the hive. This is the most unprocessed form in which honey comes, being found as large pieces of waxy comb floating in raw honey. The comb itself will contain many unopened honey cells. Raw
This is unheated honey that has been removed from the comb. It may contain bits of wax, insect parts and other small detritus. Filtered
This is raw honey that has been warmed slightly to make it more easy to filter out small particles and impurities. Other than being somewhat cleaner than raw honey it is essentially the same. Most of the trace amounts of nutrients remain intact. Liquid
This is honey that has been heated to higher temperatures to allow for easier filtering and to kill any microorganisms. Usually lighter in color, this form is milder in flavor, resists crystallization and generally clearer. It stores the best of the various forms of honey. Much of the trace amounts of vitamins, however, are lost. Crystallized or Spun
This honey has had some of its moisture content removed to make a creamy, spread. It is the most processed form of honey

Honey comes in a number of flavors. Some examples:
Alfalfa: mild flavor and aroma, excellent table honey
Avocado: amber-colored with caramelized molasses flavor and flowery aftertaste.
Basswood: light colored honey with distinctive bite
Blueberry: Amber-colored, moderate fruity flavor with a delicate aftertaste
Buckwheat: very dark amber color, pungent flavor with sharp, medicinal taste
Clover: light colored, sweet, flowery taste, very mild with spicy cinnamon aroma
Eucalyptus: Light Amber color, sweet aroma and flavor, with herbal undertones
Fireweed: Almost clear colored, mild, spicy flavor with subtle tea-like notes
Orange Blossom: light orange-amber color, sweet, fruity taste reminiscent of orange blossoms.
Sage: very light amber color, thick and viscous with a clover nectar flavor. Slow to crystallize so has long shelf life.
Sourwood: light amber color, sweet, spicy anise aroma and flavor
Tupelo: Amber colored, smooth honey with complex bouquet, and rich herbal, fruity flavor. Like sage is slow to crystallize so has long shelf life.
 
I have always been partial to apple blossom and clover honey myself. I use it in bread quite often.
 
Cathy, you’ve got me confused. Or maybe it’s that book you have which purports to be about Moroccan cuisine?

I have been cooking North African, in general, and Moroccan, in particular, for a long time. My books on the topic range from Paula Wolfert’s classic Couscous and Other Good Frood From Morocco, (the book that started the whole thing), to The North African Kitchen, which, relatively speaking, was published 20 minutes ago (well, March of this year, anyway).

In none of those books, or other references I’m familiar with, does honey play a particularly important role in Moroccan food. Sure, it’s used in confections and pastries. And sometimes as a substitute for sugar. But it is not a mainstay of the cuisine; certainly not the way orange blossom water, harissa, preserved lemons, and ras-el-hanout are.

Now, for a real Moroccan taste sensation (not I said “sensation.” I didn’t say it was good) you try smen, which is clarified butter that has gone rancid. Or at least that’s what it tastes like.

Anyway, I’d be interested in hearing more about what that book says regarding the use of honey, in general, and a certain honey, in particular, because I’m totally unfamiliar with the practice.

BTW, zamour spices (Moroccan Spices, Argan Oil, Preserved Lemons, Harissa, Ras el Hanout, Zahtar and other ethnic gourmet seasonings) is having a big sale on tajines. These were slightly, cosmetically damaged in shipment (eg, minor chips & scratches), and there are some good deals going.

The sale won't show up on the web page. But you can find their 800 number there, and give them a call. I'm sure they'll be glad to discuss it.
 
Actually, if you're interested, go here: Tagines SALE and click on "Y" (tagines with cosmetic defects) to see what's on sale.
 
There was a specific type honey mentioned, and several recipes incorporating it into the recipe, one is a leg of lamb smeared with their particular local honey and spices. I will (when I get home this pm) write you back with more particulars.

I have read about the smen, it sounds like something I would rather use ghee in place of but we'll see, after all I do like bleu cheese and other rancid tasting dairy products;)

Brook I am so enjoying this cookbook, I am taking my time reading it and have not as yet even begun to try the recipes. But I will soon!!!

Thank you so much for the info on the Zamor Spices, I was wondering where in the world I'd get the preserved lemons short of making my own! And I am dying to purchase a tagine.

I am ashamed to admit this but I am not a big fan of couscous, I am afraid though that may be because I have never had it prepared properly. I am therefore not ruling it out, and will appreciate any input you may have on it. It is my understanding from reading my cook book that it is more than a mainstay in their diet.

Thanks again I will be in touch this evening, Cathy
 
Cathy, if you'd like to try smen, it's easy. Start by making ghee (that's all clarified butter is). Salt it. Then put it in a closet for six or eight months.

I don't think blue cheeses are at all rancid tasting. Trust me, you've obviously never had rancid.

In Morroco, couscous is not served as a side dish, as we use it. It is a separate---usually last---course. And it's mostly done a lot heavier than we do, with the inclusion of all sorts of ingredients---ranging from meat to fruit.

It is traditionally made in a couscousier, which is like a double boiler. The top half is perforated, like a colander. The stew or whatever is cooked in the bottom compartment, and the steam from it cooks the couscous in the top section.

Couscousier are, unfortunately, very expensive. The cheapest one I've seen is 49 bucks, and I wouldn't have that one in my kitchen. You're more likely to spend a hundre dollars or more; an awful lot of money for something used only occasionally.
 
Hi KYH,

I got home and looked it up I was confusing some info. I was reading about honey in another cookbook I have with the info. in the Moroccan cook book.

But the recipes that I am interested in that are in fact in my Morocco cook book are: Roasted Smen-Coated lamb with Honey (mechoui) and then
another dish: Fresh figs with Walnuts and Honey (yermous bil assel). The honey mentioned in the Moroccan cookbook is described as "a special dark honey called jbal that is particularly sweet and delicate as it is made by bees that only feast on figs". Now that sounds good.

Did you my Private Message re: tagines? I really need help deciding which to purchase and anxiously await your input.

Thanks, Cathy
 
Flavored Honeys

These call for one pound of honey!

MINT:
1/4 c chopped fresh mint leaves

ORANGE:
1 tb freshly grated orange rind

CLOVER OR ALFALFA GRAPEFRUIT
1 tb fresh grated grapefruit rind
1 lb clover or alfalfa honey
1 pepper

CLOVER OR ALFALFA ALLSPICE
1 tb whole allspice

CLOVER OR ALFALFA HONEY LEMON
1 tb fresh grated lemon rind

CLOVER OR ALFALFA HONEY HOT HONEY
1 1/2 ts dried hot crushed red

FOR MINT HONEY: pour honey into small saucepan. Add mint leaves and stir to
combine. Warm mixture over low heat for 10 minutes. Let stand for at least
2 hours (better if longer) Strain and pour into 2 clean eight ounce jars.


FOR ANY OF THE CITRUS HONEYS: pour honey into small saucepan and add grated rind. Stir to combine and heat over low heat for 10 minutes. Let stand for at least 2 hours. Strain into clean eight ounce jars.

FOR ALLSPICE HONEY: pour honey into small saucepan and add 1 Tbsp whole allspice. Warm mixture on low heat for 10 minutes. Let stand at least 2 hours. THEN warm mixture again for a second 10 minutes. Let stand overnight before straining and pouring into clean jars.

FOR HOT HONEY: pour honey into small saucepan and add red pepper flakes. Stir to combine and heat on low heat for 10 minutes. Let stand for 1 to 2 hours and then strain into clean jars. HONEY HINTS: Honeys should not be refrigerated. If it should crystallize, it can be reliquified easily by placing the jar in warm water or microcook 1 cup honey on high for 2 - 3 minutes, stirring every 30 seconds. Be sure not to boil or scorch.
 
Wow Mama these sound different, I like the sound of the Hot Honey!!! I am going to make some of that for sure to use in my various recipes.

Yesterday I found a place on-line and ordered my Tupelo honey. I actually called the beekeeper and asked him about the bee problem. He said he's not had a problem with his bees disappearing or dying off; the bees he feels are affected are the ones that pollinators take and release into crops. I know I have seen zero honey bees in my garden this year I am sad about this. I love bees they seem to like me as well, I have no fear of them and never get stung even if we are both in the garden working at the same time.

Hey Mama speaking of bugs and such I just watched a movie last night called "THE MIST", it was a good scarrey movie, but the ending was a little messed up in my opinion, but that's a Stephen King movie for you! You might get a kick out of seeing it?
 
KYHeirloomer said:
Cathy, if you'd like to try smen, it's easy. Start by making ghee (that's all clarified butter is). Salt it. Then put it in a closet for six or eight months.

I don't think blue cheeses are at all rancid tasting. Trust me, you've obviously never had rancid.
Click to expand...

Hi KYH,
Are you serious about putting the ghee in the clothset for that long to make the smen? I am kind of scarred to do it, as I think that perhaps I could get an upset tummy or worse!
Thanks for the info on couscous, I did in fact read a recipe that used raisins and cinnamon in the couscous and you know it sounded delicious, may be something I will enjoy trying. It seems to me the way they prepare it by hand is an awful lot of work, but I can imagine that it is very good what with all the love & labor that they put into it. I just know I have not had good couscous and I really want to have some that is. And well you know the old saying; if you want something done right...do it yourself! So I am going to go for it and make up some of these recipes I will improvise and use something similar to the couscousier you mentioned. If it (my improvised couscousier) turns out OK I will let you know.
I am beginning to wonder how I lived my entire life knowing nothing about Moroccan cooking. I hope my fiance will like it as I feel it may become real popular around my home:)
Thanks for all your help, Cathy
 
Here's my recipe for making ghee:

In a large frying pan, melt 1 pound unsalted butter over very low heat; this should take about 15 minutes. Increase the heat to medium. White foam will begin to form on the surface and the butter will start to crackle.

This indicates that the moisture is beginning to leave the milk solids. Cook for 10 minutes without stirring.

When the moisture is completely gone, the crackling will stop and the foam will subside.

Using a wooden spatula, stir the liquid constantly until the butter solids begin to brown. Immediately turn off the heat and let the brown residue settle to the bottom.

When the melted butter is cool, pour the clear liquid into a jar through a double layer of cheesecloth.

One pound of unsalted butter will yield 1 1/2 cups of usli ghee. Ghee will keep in a well-sealed jar for about 2 months at room temperature and 5 months in the refrigerator.



By the way - I saw MIST - OMG! Typical King movie - yes the ending was weird - but that movie was good!
 
Cathy, the longer smen sits the stronger (and better?) it gets. Old time Berbers still bury it in crocks to cure for a year.

A month is none too soon, though. Here is Paula Wolfert's recipe for:

Herbal Smen

Salt
1/2 cup fresh oregano or a combination of oregano, marjoram, and thyme
1 pund very fresh sweet butter.

1. Boil a small handful of salt and the oregano leaves in 1 quart water. Strain into a shallow bowl and allow to cool.

2. When the blackened "oregano water" has cooled to the point where it willno longer melt butter, add the butter, cut up into pieces, and knead until it has the consistency of mashed potatoes, pressing the mixture again and again against the bottom of the bowl so that every bit has been thoroughly wasted. Drain the butter and then squeeze to extract excess water. Knead into a ball, place in a sterile glass container, and cover tightly.

3. Keep the container in a cool place (not the refrigerator) for at least 30 days before using. Once it has been opened, store in the refgrigerator, where it will keep 1 to 2 months longer.
 
Much thanks for the recipes MamaM & KYH. There is a good crop of Oregano coming up in my herb garden so I will definetley make the smen. I would love to at least try it once. KYH what do you think of the taste of smen is it something that you like?

Not to get off subject but: Speaking of herb garden, I am elated that I chose to grow so many of the herbs that are used regularly in Moroccan cooking. And I planted all of them way before I got this book, well sometimes we just get lucky:)

Anyway thanks ya' all!
Cathy
 
from my notes on Smen -

Smen (semneh, beurre ranci ) is a traditional butter-based cooking oil made from sheep and goat milk. Preserved butter, with its deep, pungent aroma and distinctive flavor, enhances many of Morocco's savory dishes, especially couscous. It is an aged butter similar to Asian ghee, and is a prized flavoring ingredient in Moroccan dishes.

In Morocco, smen (or sman) is still a delicacy. It is made by kneading butter with various decoctions of herbs, cinnamon, and other spices; the mixture is then cooked, salted, and strained like ghee. It is poured into jugs, tightly stoppered, and buried in the ground for months, sometimes years. Stores of the precious stuff are saved for special feasts. The smell is considered especially magnificent: a particularly aged pot of the family smen may be brought out of the cellars for honoured guests to sniff. The smen represents the riches of the house. The necessity of "doctoring" a perishable substance in order to save it in hot weather is in this manner turned into a gastronomic triumph, and hedged about with tradition and prestige. Other versions of clarified butter, called samna by non-Moroccan Arabs, are to be found throughout the Middle East.
In Lebanon, samneh is made from butter that has been boiled until the fat in the pan is as transparent as a tear (dam'at el-eyn ). It is then taken off the heat and left to settle before being carefully strained through a fine sieve into sealed containers where it will keep for a year or more. Ethiopia has a spiced version, nit'r k'ibe.



Smen (moroccan preserved butter)
Makes 11/2 cups
1 pound unsalted butter (pasteurized or unpasteurized)
2 teaspoons dried oregano leaves
1 tablespoon sea salt
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Wrap the oregano in a small piece of cheesecloth. Tie the sachet with cotton string, and set in the butter. Simmer until the butter separates into a clear, golden liquid and a milky sediment, 25 to 30 minutes. Carefully pour off the golden liquid (clarified butter), and strain through a piece of clean, fine muslin. Discard the milky sediment and oregano sachet. Transfer to a hot sterilized glass jar. Add the salt and mix until dissolved. Cover and let stand in a cool place until the mixture becomes pungent, 1 to 2 weeks. Drain any liquid from the jar and refrigerate the butter. Use within 6 months.




To make smen, cut 16 tbsp. unsalted butter into chunks; knead in a bowl with 6 tbsp. fine sea salt. Form butter into 8 patties; stack in an earthenware container and cover; set aside to let rest in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks. Melt butter in a pot over low heat, without stirring, removing foam, until clear, 20?25 minutes. Cool. Strain through a cheesecloth-lined sieve. Repeat. Discard solids; spoon into a jar. Seal; store in a cool, dark spot for a month. Makes about 1/4 cup.
 
Personally, Cathy, I can take it or leave it---and prefer leaving it.

If you want to be true to some dishes, you have to use it. In those cases I just go with the spirit of the dish, not the exact ingredients. But everyone's taste is different, so you should give it a try and see what you think.
 
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